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door seals


MGA owners, we are happy to announce our new and 100% correct door seal is now available in 6 colors. Having to slam your doors shut is now a thing of the past!

A great deal of time and money has been spent on this reproduction in order to get it right. The seal assembly is produced as original and features a specially formed flexible galvanized steel “skeleton” channel covered with a cotton backed plush wool material. The steel channel is made in house with a new progressive tool on one of our presses. The material has been dyed to match the original colors by the mill house that manufactures the material for us. New tooling was made to produce the properly shaped soft neoprene rubber extrusion which is attached to the covered channel with the original style spring steel clips.

The seal is fully assembled and guaranteed to fit a properly prepared surface as detailed in the instructions. As part of the seal development a set was fitted to Todd Clarke’s MGA Mk.II to make sure it was correct and did not cause “shut” problems. Many seal sets have now been sold and installed worldwide with great results.

*This seal is also correct for Jaguar XK150, MK.7/8/9 & many BMC Sedans. Ask for price. Available in BLACK (coal), RED (rust), TAN (biscuit), DARK RED (scarlet), GRAY (dove), BLUE (medium)—see rollover image

P75A—Roadster $149.00 (per set of two)
P75B—Coupé $220.00 (per set of two)
P75C—Magnette ZA/ZB (4 door set) $550.00

specify color
custom orders: up to 12 ft. continuous lengths—starting at $15.50 per ft.—state requirements and ask for quote.


Thank you for your interest in our MGA door seal. The seal can be installed in a few minutes as long as the surface/flange is properly prepared...

IMPORTANT!!! The metal/body flange which surrounds the door opening should be at least 1/2" wide and a maximum thickness of .120" to .125". Originally the steel panels that make up this flange were spot welded together producing a fairly smooth surface, etc. Excess thickness caused by sloppy body repair must be removed for the seal to fit properly!

Also note—there should be at least a 1/2" gap between the body flange and closed door all around. (In most cases you will find as much as a 3/4" gap between the front of the door and the body...this is OK) The 1/2" to 3/4" gaps do not take into account the thickness of the door panel—originally about 1/8" thick. The 1/8" will decrease the 1/2" plus gap.

Once you have determined the flange is correct you can install the seal by hand—no tools are required. HAMMERING WILL DISTORT THE SEAL CHANNEL. The small spring clips in the channel are spaced about 3" apart. These clips are what actually secure the channel/seal to the flange. Make sure you push them over the flange edge and they will grip!.

Once the channel is positioned, gently squeeze it together making sure it is as tight as possible against the body flange. Rubber faces the door. The door seal is supplied in sets with each length hand tailored in such a way that it becomes a LH/RH pc.

Note—there is a finished end where the first spring clip is positioned approx. 2" from the end. START INSTALLATION WITH THIS END. The clips are positioned in such a way that they should not end up positioned at bottom corners for example. The seal is flexible enough to push into front bottom corner and create a good seal and finished look.

In general it is a good idea to fit the seal after interior work has been completed...installation of carpet and int. panels. It is best to “get it right” the first time because pulling the channel off the flange may dislodge clips! Please contact us anytime if you have questions.

ROADSTERS—start at top rear (see drawing) fitting the chrome cap (the chrome cap fits over interior panel at front and rear) so that it fully covers the channel end...tuck channel, rubber and fabric into chrome cap. Once you have reached the top front- end area, determine final length and trim excess. Carefully fold back the plush wool /cotton fabric and rubber. Cut the metal channel with tin snips and the fabric and rubber with sizzors. Push the rubber and fabric back into position and install into the chrome cover, etc.

COUPE—originally, installation of seal started/ended at front bottom corner. Beginning/ending at bottom center provides a more finished job. (rubber ends can be joined with cement, etc.) Coupes were fitted with a finishing trim pc. to protect seal at lower edge.


We are proud to say that, with the exception of the clips, all components are made in the U.S.A.
The clips are made in BRITAIN with original tooling.
and, as far as we know, no one else is producing the correct seal!